Handmade Gift Ideas from “Trash to Couture”

Hi there, Laura here from Trash to Couture!
Need some inspiration and ideas for your handmade gifting this year?  No worries, Sulky and I have got you covered. Not only are handmade gifts a sentimental gesture, they’re also fun to create.  Below we have 4 DIY gift ideas you can make for just about everyone in your life.
Get the details below :

DIY Ornament:

  • Hoop using Sulky’s Fabri Solvy – I usually do 2 layers.
  • Use a free standing ornament design. I used a star from my Brother SE machine.
  • Use Sulky’s Metallic Thread and metallic needles.
  • Embroider away!
  • Place in water and let the magic happen as the stabilizer disappears.
  • Once it has dried, tie a string to hang.
DIY Free-standing Jewelry:

DIY Monogram Beanie:

We monogram just about anything in the South and it’s the perfect way to customize a gift like this essential winter beanie. 

Other ideas to try:

Monogrammed Camera Case

Handmade Gift Ideas From Trash to Couture

DIY Hoop Art:

I love embroidered hoop art, it’s such a fun and cute way to add some artwork to your walls.  It’s also easy to customize, which makes it a great gift idea – like this cactus design here. It’s perfect for hanging right above my sewing machine!
Check out this DIY Embroidered Wall Art for more.





Free Webinar: Holiday In-the-Hoop

Free Webinar: Holiday In-the-Hoop

Embroidery Quilt Block Projects & More

with Lisa Archer

 

Join us for this FREE webinar: Holiday In-the-Hoop!  Lisa Archer, Owner & Creative Director of Pickle Pie Designs, will teach you how fast, fun and easy it is to make machine embroidery in-the-hoop projects. Lisa is the master when it comes to in-the-hoop projects, and she will share her tips and tricks for success.

She will explain the purpose of each step of an in-the-hoop project as she walks you through the process of making a whimsical Snowman Coaster entirely in the hoop. That’s right, no machine sewing required!

 

Get the details:

Title: Holiday In-the-Hoop

Date: October 10, 2017

Time: 9:00 pm EST

Duration: 1 hour

Special Guest: Lisa Archer of Pickle Pie Designs

You will learn:

  • All about in-the-hoop designs
  • The best way to trim appliqué while it’s in the hoop
  • How to hoop a baby bib
  • Tips & techniques for perfectly trimmed appliqués
  • How to turn our whimsical quilt blocks into 9 different projects

You’ll Receive:

A free Snowman Quilt Block from the Baby It’s Cold Outside CD Set by Pickle Pie Designs – AND a free Ducky Applique design from Lisa’s book: Modern Machine Embroidery.

Dont forget!

Great kits and items will we be on sale following the initial webcast, for 24 hours ONLY – so be sure to check those out at www.sulky.com!

Can’t make it? You can still sign up! After the initial webcast, it is available as a Start-Anytime course – meaning you can watch it at anytime at your own convenience!

 

free webinar: holiday in-the-hoop

Register today!

 




Cork Fabric Needle Case – A Free In-The-Hoop Project

Cork Fabric Needle Case

In-The-Hoop Project by Pamela Cox

Supplies:

3-1/2”x 5-1/4” piece of cork fabric

3-1/2”x 5-1/4” piece of felt

Sulky Soft ’n Sheer™ Stabilizer

Sulky KK 2000™ Temporary Spray Adhesive

Sulky 40 wt. Rayon thread

Basic Needle Case Embroidery Design – Free download (Download is below)

Color Chart for Needle Case – Free download (Download is below)

Embroidery Design of Choice – optional (No larger than 1-1/2”x 2-1/4”.)

Preparation:

  1. Download both the needle case design and the color chart here: Needle Case Emb Designs
  2. If a design is to be added to the cover of the needle case, open the basic case design in a software editing program.  Be sure to note the maximum design sign above.If the case is to be stitched plain, load the design into your embroidery machine.
  3. Bring the chosen design into work space. I selected Design #16 from a Graceful Embroidery Collection, Graced in Petals – Set 1, available at www.gracefulembroidery.com.
  4. Center the design within the available front cover space. Use the gridlines and arrows around the new design for placement.
  1. Combine the two designs. The number of colors will now increase from the 5 basic needle case colors to include as many colors needed to stitch the added design, which, in this example is now 12.
  2. Not all software operates the same. If possible, such as in Premiere+ Embroidery Extra from Husqvarna-Viking, move colors 3, 4 and 5 to stitch, in their same order, but after the last color of the cover design.   If you are unable to physically change the order, when embroidering, stitch colors 1 and 2, skip over 3, 4 and 5; stitch all the colors needed for the cover design, and backup to 3 to stitch.  Finish with 4 and then 5.

In the Hoop Project:

  1. Securely hoop a piece of Sulky Soft ’n Sheer Stabilizer in a 150 mm hoop.  It comes in black and white, and I used black for this project. NOTE:  If you read this Blog Post on cork fabric, I said that Sulky Sticky+™ is the stabilizer of choice when machine embroidering on cork fabric.  This is still true, however, there are always exceptions to the rule and this happens to be one of them.  The stabilizer will remain in the final project sandwiched between a layer of felt and cork.  This “unsticky” stabilizer prevent the needles from possibly grabbing a sticky surface when they are stored in the case.
  2. Lightly spray the wrong side of the cork piece with Sulky KK 2000 Temporary Spray Adhesive.
  3. Stitch color #1, placement lines, directly on the stabilizer.
  4. Press the cork, right side up, firmly on the stabilizer covering all placement lines.
  5. Stitch color #2 to further secure the cork to Soft ’n Sheer Stabilizer. NOTE: If a cover design has been incorporated, make sure it completely stitches before going on to the gold thread color – originally color #3
  6. Lightly spray one side of the felt piece with KK 2000 Temporary Adhesive. Remove the hoop from the machine and press the sticky side of the felt to the underneath side of the hoop. Cover the placement lines.
  7. Return the hoop to the machine and finish stitching the needle case colors which were originally #3, #4 and #5.
  8. Once all stitching is completed, remove the project from the hoop. Using a straight edge and a rotary cutter, trim through all layers just outside of the decorative stitching.  Be careful to not cut into the stitching.
  9. Crease in half. Place case under a heavy weight overnight to help crease the case.




DIY Tassel Necklace – It’s Super Easy!

In case you are like me and need a couple more gifts, here is a fun and quick gift you can make.

tassle-necklaces-done

 

These trendy necklaces can be made in any color you want, and you can get them done fairly quickly. Here is what you need:

tassle-necklace-supplies

  • Beads – I picked mostly glass beads with a few natural stone and painted beads thrown in. I got 3 necklaces out of each 112-inch string of glass beads.
  • Bead Stringing Wire, .024 in – I bought 30 ft. since I knew I had a lot of necklaces to make. You need 34″ per necklace
  • Connectors – I like the triangle ones, but the round ones would work just as well.
  • Crimp Tubes, 2mm – The bead stringing wire said which size crimp tube to use.
  • Needle-Nose Pliers – This little guy is great because it crimps the crimp tube down and cuts the beading wire.
  • Scissors – to cut the thread, and to cut the clear string the beads are sold on.
  • Wooden Skewer – You can use a pencil, chopstick, even a candy cane. You just need something to hold the tassel while you are making it.
  • Index Cards and a Rubber Band – For winding the tassel.
  • Threads – I used a variety of threads. Sulky 40 wt. Rayon, Sulky 12 wt. Cotton, Sulky 30 wt. Cotton Blendables® and Sulky 30 wt. Cotton Solids

tassle-necklace-threads

To get started grab the stack of index cards and rubber-band them together (I used about 10 cards); then choose which thread you want to use to make the tassel.tassle-necklace-1

Begin wrapping the thread around the card stack.wrap-aorund-card-beginning

Keep wrapping until you are happy with the tassel size (remember that you are only seeing half the tassel on top of the card).

tassle-necklace-4

Take a piece of thread and feed it under the threads that you wrapped; then tie it off to hold all the threads together.

tie-strings-on-index-card

Now slip the skewer under the threads and gently pull them off the stack of index cards.

srap-thread-around-the-tassle-strings

Take another piece of thread and begin wrapping it around all the threads close to the top.

tassle-on-skewer

Wrap several times and then tie it off. You can either cut the ends after you’ve tied off, or you can smooth those two strings down into the tassel.

tie-the-tassle-top

Cut the loops at the bottom and set the tassel aside. Don’t take it off the skewer until the bead part of the necklace is ready.

cut-the-tassle-strings

Now for the beads. I cut a piece of beading wire 34″ long and strung the glass beads onto the wire. Here is my time-saving tip. Leave the beads connected together on the clear line they came on and just feed the beading wire down next to the other line. You can string all three of the necklaces before cutting the clear line. This means the beads don’t roll around everywhere and you don’t have to feed them all on one at a time.

stringing-beads

string-beads-1

Once they are strung, use the crimp tube and the needle nose pliers to crimp both ends of the wire together. Be sure to cut off the excess wire. Your necklace will end up about 32″ long.

Now it’s time to add the tassel. Get your connector and open it up with the needle nose pliers.

tassle-triangles

Put the connector through the top of the tassel while it is still on the skewer. The skewer will help you maneuver the connector through the threads.

put-ring-thru-tassle

Now slide the tassel off the skewer and secure the tassel to the beads.

tassle-necklace-secure-to-beads-2

Pinch the connector closed.

tassle-necklace-pinch-metal-2

Lastly, give your tassels a haircut so they are all even across the bottom.

tassle-necklaces-haircut

Viola! Your necklaces are done.

tassle-necklace-finished-1

Make one in every color to keep for yourself or give as gifts.

tassle-necklace-compare-threads-for-tassle

 




Quick and Easy Vinyl Placemat – Tutorial

placemat lifestyle 2

Finished oval size: 11-1/2” x 16-3/4”

As an added bonus to our Machine Embroidery Series, Pamela Cox has designed this wonderful tutorial for a quick and easy vinyl placemat. If you have never tried machine embroidery on vinyl, check out Pam’s blog post here and then try this great project.

Quick and Easy Vinyl Placemat

Materials:

  • 12-1/4” x 17-1/4” piece of textured vinyl, Usually sold by the yard with the intention of being used as a tablecloth, this type of vinyl will have a fuzzy, very thin, batting/backing. (1/2 yd. of 54” wide vinyl will yield 4 placemats)
    90/14 Leather Needle
  • Thread: Sulky® 40 wt. Rayon or Poly Deco™ 40 wt. embroidery thread – your choice of colors for your design
  • Sulky Blendables® thread – choice of color for the accent border
  • Stabilizer:  Sulky® Sticky +™ – 1 yd. pack (#551-01) or precut sheets (#551-02) for small hoops
  • Embroidery Design: Flower accent from My Fair Lady’s Summer Stipple Collection-#15
  • Personalize name created using Ultra Premier+™ software from Husqvarna-Viking (or your software)
  • Painter’s tape

Plan a personalized design (here’s what I did):

In your software editing program, open design #15 from My Fair Lady’s Summer stipple collection:

original 15

Horizontally flip it and then rotate it to the left about 25°.  The goal is a “gentle curve” which works well on its own.  However, when combining the design with a name or phrase, the design “rotation” might be better presented at a slightly increased angle.

gentle curve

If an individual name or phrase is to be added, use your editing software or incorporate lettering available on your embroidery machine. Please note that the following instructions are based on using Ultra Premier+™ created by Husqvarna Viking.   Although steps may vary slightly depending upon your editing software, the concept remains the same:

In the lettering program, choose a simple line “Script” font: like “Valentina”.

Although this very sophisticated editing program offers many “word shapes”, by choosing to bring each letter in individually, to a design, exact rotation and placement is under your control.

individual letters

The end result is that “Abby” follows the contour of the design.  Even though the “stem” ends before the name does, the last letters within the name continue to follow the contour of the placemat.

Directions:

Square-cut a piece of textured vinyl 12-1/4” x 17-1/4”

Lightly sketch the rounded edge of the placemat in the lower left corner. Document the personalized design size.

actual size

Mark a “+” on a piece of painter’s tape. Mark the design center measuring  “in and up” from the lower right corner of the cut vinyl, taking into consideration the marked curve.  “Exact” placement is not a necessity, but rather a more approximate placement.  Final cuts are done after stitching, so there is a bit of “wiggle room”. However, make sure to factor in space for a decorative edging stitch (if desired).   This means that if the total design measures 2-1/4” x 3-3/4”, divide that in half, and add about 1/2” to “half the width and height”.  For instance, halved it would be:  1-1/8 + 1/2″ = 1-5/8” and 1-7/8″ + 1/2″ = 2-3/8” when marking the center of the design.

center placement

Measure in and up from penciled curve of placemat to locate design center based on individualized measurements.  Place the marked painter’s tape.

Hoop Sulky® Sticky+™, “tight as a drum” with the gridded paper side facing up in a hoop size which is larger than required for the design. Slightly score the paper with a pin inside the hoop’s frame, remove and discard paper. First match design center to hoop center as closely as possible.  (AN IDEA:  You could also use a piece of Sticky Fabri-Solvy for this marking.  Then if you forget to remove it before starting to stitch, no problem, it just washes away.)

hoop center fixed

 

design center

Then attach the hoop to the machine and adjust the needle center position to the design’s center.  Once satisfied, remove the painter’s tape.

needle center

Slow the machine speed down by at least half and stitch the design. Remove from hoop and trim any excess stabilizer deemed necessary. Remember, this is a fun, party or summer project, the backside is not terribly important.  Normally, Sulky Sticky+™ is extremely easy to remove and “tear-away”.  However, that fuzzy vinyl backing which is truly great for adhering to the stabilizer and great for actual embroidering pretty much negates the easy removal of the Sticky+ from the backside of the project. Square cut the placemat to fit the stitched design – vinyl has no grain, and although the design was “centered” as accurately as possible, it now becomes more important that the design shows as “squared”

square cut

Round off each corner:  Create a template by tracing an appropriately curved object, such as a cereal bowl to insure that each corner will mirror-image another.  (Hint:  You can measure diagonally from the point of the corner to your first curve to help you be more accurate on your other 3 curves.)

draw curveSelect a decorative stitch from those available on individual machines, to provide a “finished” look to the vinyl cut edge

A Sulky Blendables® – 30 wt. Cotton Thread adds a wonderful variation to any decorative stitch

placemat lifestyle 1

How quick and easy is this project?  How special would this be for a little girl’s birthday party when the guests are presented with their personalized placemat to take home?

Very special memories for all.




A Couple More Mother’s Day Gift Ideas

Mother’s Day is next weekend but if you still aren’t sure what to do, here are a couple more gifts that you will have done in a snap.

Blue-Cosmetic-Bag

You can purchase the green version of this cute cosmetic bag here and this embroidery design from the Sulky Embroidery Club here. It’s a great way to remind a mom in your life that she really is super every single day.

Mother's-Day-Cocktail-Napkin

These linen cocktails napkins are also available at Sulky.com and the flower embroidery is here in the Sulky Embroidery Club. I just love these! You could do one, two, or twelve and they are a great gift for just about anyone.

If you ordered these today, you would most likely get them in plenty of time to get them embroidered before Mother’s Day. (I can’t promise that for you California folks, but you can always blame me for your present being late).

Happy Mother’s Day and Happy Sewing!




Calendar and ‘To-Do List’ Organizer – Tutorial

Do you make New Year’s Resolutions? I try to set a couple goals that challenge me throughout the year. For 2015, my goal was balance. For the most part I did well and at times I failed miserably :). One of my goals for 2016 is to be more organized and productive in my daily life, so I decided to start the year off by making a cute holder for my calendar, notepad and daily to-do list. Here is the tutorial in case you want to get more organized in 2016 too!

Fuzed cover copyI put my favorite Martin Luther King Jr. quote on the front of my organizer just to remind me of what is really important. In the hustle and bustle of everyday life, it’s nice to have a reminder of what is really important. You can download this design for FREE from the Sulky Embroidery Club here.

Supplies

4 coordinating fat quarters plus one 21″ x 14″ piece of fabric for backing – this will give you enough fabric for the holder including the binding and a little left over
1 piece of batting 21″ x 14″
Sulky Fuse n Stitch™
Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer Extra™
KK 2000™ Temporary Spray Adhesive
Sulky 30 Wt. Cotton Thread in Coordinating color
MLK Machine Embroidery Design – It’s free here
Sulky 40 Wt. Rayon Thread in Coordinating colors for the machine embroidery design
Sulky Tear-Easy™ for stitching out the embroidery design
Fabric Marker
Clover® Wonder Clips™ (optional)
1/4″ Foot (optional)
Basic sewing supplies

MLK-quote

Start by stitching out the embroidery design. I used Sulky 40 Wt. Rayon in Medium Turquoise #1094 and Hot Pink #1109. I hooped my fabric along with 2 layers of Sulky Tear-Easy. I probably could have gotten away with one layer, but my motto is I would rather use too much stabilizer and not need it, than too little and not have a clean, pucker-free design. Center the design where you want it on the front cover and cut the fabric to 10-1/2″ x 13″. Cut the back cover fabric to 10-1/2″ x 13″.

010 (1)Stitch these two together with a quarter inch seam allowance. (I serged this seam.) Fuse a 20″ x 13″ piece of Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer Extra™ to the wrong side of the front and back cover. This gives the piece extra stability and keeps it from shifting and distorting while you are quilting.

009Make a quilt sandwich with the backing right side down, then the batting and cover right side up. Use Sulky KK 2000 to hold the three layers together for quilting. TIP: Spray the KK 2000 onto the fabric, not the batting, for a better, longer stick.

008I quilted the front cover in a crosshatch pattern with Sulky 40 Wt. Rayon in Pale Yellow #1061 in the top and bobbin. I like the way the rayon blended into the fabric but gave just a little shine. I quilted the back cover with Sulky 30 Wt. Cotton Blendables in Glacier #4069. The colors in this Blendable are a perfect match to the blue fabric and the subtle pink fabric that I used for the inside pockets.

Once the quilting was finished, I trimmed the cover to 20″ x 13″. Now onto the pockets!

022
For the left side pocket, cut a piece of fabric 17″ x 10-1/2″ and a piece of Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch 8-1/2″ x 10-3/4″. Fold the fabric in half, right sides together, so it measures 8-1/2″ x 10-1/2″. Fuse the 8-1/2″ x 10-3/4″ piece of Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch to the wrong side of the fabric leaving a quarter inch seam allowance on the three sides with raw edges.013

With a 1/4″ foot, stitch along the edge of the Fuse n Stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance, down one 8-1/2″ side from the fold to bottom. Turn and press.012

For the right side pocket, cut a piece of fabric 17″ x 13″ and a piece of Sulky Fuse ”n Stitch 8-1/2″ x 13″. Fold the fabric in half, right sides together so it measures 8-1/2″ x 13″. Fuse the 8-1/2″ x 13″ piece of Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch to the wrong side of the fabric. Turn so the right sides are together and press.savedforweb

Using Clover Wonder Clips™, clip the pockets in place (like in the picture below). Use a pin to pin the top edge of the left side pocket in place so it doesn’t shift when you sew. Sew the raw edges down with a scant quarter inch seam allowance.Organizer w wonder clips

Top stitch the side of the left pocket down. I used my walking foot to ensure the pocket didn’t shift and I used the Sulky 30 Wt. Cotton Blendable in Glacier on top and the Sulky 30 Wt. Rayon in Pale Yellow in the bobbin. I carefully stitched in the ditch where the two cover fabrics joined so there wasn’t an extra seam on the outside spine of the organizer.019

Now it’s time for binding! I wanted my binding to match the cover fabrics so I had to be sure they joined right at the seam where the two fabrics are joined. 004

Disclaimer: I have no idea if this is the right way to do this. This is how I did it. I fired the ‘Sewing Police” a long time ago so if this is different than others would do it, I am sorry, and I would love to hear any other methods of doing this in the comments! This method did work really well for me on this project.

I cut two 2-1/4″ strips from each of the cover fabrics. I joined the strips and clipped the binding to the front.

002Once I got to the seam, I marked it with a FriXion™ pen, then cut the strip leaving a quarter inch seam allowance. I then joined the second color binding strip.

003I did the same process at the other seam and viola!

023Next, I sewed the binding on like I always do. I use a walking foot and sew the binding to the front of the project with a quarter inch seam allowance, mitering at the corners. I trim any excess seam allowance and then hand stitch the binding down to the back.

fuzed open no stuffI love my new organizer! I fits my notepad and my calendars perfectly. I really like the printable calendars and planners from Scattered Squirrel. Here’s to an organized 2016!fuzed-opened

Happy Sewing!

Do you have Pinterest? Pin this image below to your page so your friends can find this tutorial too!

Tutorial




Sew All Your Gifts In One Day – Part Three

Here is the last installment of this series, “Sew All Your Gifts In One Day.” You can read part one here and part two here.

Another quick gift I like to give (and receive) is Mug Hugs!

mug hugs finished

They are super easy and great for just about anyone. Pick fabrics and buttons that fit the personality of the gift recipient and you are golden! The full step-by-step tutorial, including the downloadable pattern is here.

headband 3

Even when I lived in Southern California, I occasionally needed a cute fleece headband that would also keep my ears warm. I think these are technically called ear bands. I bought several of these when they were on sale and they are in my blanks bin for when I need a quick and easy gift.

headband 1

I hooped Sulky Sticky +™, removed the release sheet and stuck the headband to the stabilizer. Then I floated a layer of Sulky Tear-Easy™ under the hoop. For thread, I used Sulky 40 Wt. Rayon.

headband 2

This took me about 20 minutes to do from start to finish!  NOTE:  When using a high-pile type of fleece band, you would want to use Sulky Solvy® as a topper to hold the fleece down as you stitch.

fleece jacket 2

My last quick gift really is my favorite. I love having lightweight knit or fleece jackets and have one in just about every color. Everyone of them is monogrammed (of course!) and this time I decided to use this modern stacked monogram.

monogramm fleece supplies

I used Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer™ as the bottom stabilizer and Sulky Heat-Away as the topper because I didn’t want to have to wash the jacket after doing the embroidery. I used a topper as well as the Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer because this knit material is rather thick and I wanted to be sure the letters would stand out.  (On a high-pile fleece jacket, though, I would use Solvy as a topper instead of the Heat-Away.)

heat away for monogramming fleece

After hooping all three items, the Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer, the jacket and the Heat-Away, I sewed this out with Sulky 40 wt. Rayon in Goldenrod #1024

monogram fleece

I went over the stitching twice also. That extra layer of thread really helps the monogram to stand out.

fleece jacket 1

What is your favorite Go-To quick gift? Let me know in the comments below.

Merry Christmas and Happy Sewing!




Sew All Your Gifts In One Day – Part Two

Combo pic of christmas gifts

Yesterday, the post was all about coasters! If you missed it, you can read it here. Coasters make a great gift. Today, let’s look at some other great and quick gifts. I love my embroidery machine because it is a great way to make quick gifts, but if you don’t have an embroidery machine, then this Spool Stocking is the perfect gift for a fellow sewist.

spool stockings finished

It can of course be used as a Christmas stocking, but it is also great in a sewing studio to hold sewing tools and rulers as well! The full step-by-step tutorial, including the free, downloadable paper-pieced pattern is here.

999-SSK1 (1)

We also have a great kit of the Sulky supplies that you need to make these stockings in our Holiday Headquarters shop here.

boots kitchen towel

If you do have an embroidery machine, cute Christmas themed kitchen towels are a great gift! I can’t get over how much I love this Reindeer in Boots design from the Sulky Embroidery Club.

943-08

I used this set from the Sulky Holiday Headquarters to stitch him out, and the towel was one I picked up from Target at some point; but we have some good kitchen towels on our site if you don’t have one in your stash already.

pillow finished

Are throw pillows more your style? Pick up a simple one that fits the decor of the person who will receive your gift and add the name! Everyone likes to have their name on a pillow, right? That can’t just be a southern thing.

pillow 1

Pillows are fairly easy to embroider on, but let me give you a couple tips. Since this isn’t something you could easily do over if you messed up, use a little extra stabilizer. The most common mistake people make when doing machine embroidery is not using enough or the right stabilizer. For this pillow, I used two layers of Sulky-Tear Easy™ and Sulky Solvy® as a topper. I inserted the hoop inside the pillow cover and hooped the Sulky Solvy, pillow and Sulky Tear-Easy (in that order from top to bottom).

pillow 2

After I had the whole thing hooped, I turned the cover inside out and used Clover® Clips to hold the rest of the pillow away while it was sewing.

pillow 3

Once the embroidery is done, gently tear the Sulky Solvy and the Sulky Tear-Easy away, one layer at a time tearing towards the stitching line. Iron, and put in the pillow form.

pillow 4

All done! Onto the next gift…

Quick Gifts

Want more gift ideas? Here is a post I did awhile back with some other really great quick gifts.

If you still want more, stay tuned! tomorrow I will give you a few more projects.

Happy Sewing!




Sew All Your Gifts In One Day – Part one!

It’s hard to believe it is already the first week of December! Are you ready for Christmas or do you still have gifts to make? If you do have gifts or want a few more Christmas-y things for your own home, the next few posts are for you! Here are a few quick things that make perfect gifts or decorations for your home and you can get these done in one day. I can’t think of a better way to spend a full day in early December than in my sewing studio, playing Christmas music and making things.

Coasters

If you have read this blog for any length of time, you know I love coasters! They make a perfect gift and are fun and easy to make.

coasters_wite-black

I made these last summer and gave them as a hostess gift.

ornaments_white

Christmas Ornaments I made at the same time I made the coasters!

As an added bonus, I made these little Christmas ornaments at the same time. The tutorial for these guys is here.

coffee coasters all

These wonderful coffee themed coasters are in the Sulky Embroidery Club, but when I downloaded the project, I knew doing it the way the instructions said to do it would take too much time. Here are the shortcuts I took so I could get them done quickly.

coffee coaster layersI layered my fabric with one layer of Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer, a layer of batting and another layer of fabric with the right side down. I cut big enough pieces so that I could do all six coasters. Once the embroidery was done on the first one, I simply unhooped it, moved over and hooped again.

coaster supplies

I hooped all the layers together in the hoop. I used Sulky 40 wt. Rayon Lt. Brown #1170 in the bobbin and top thread. Although the design says to use several different thread colors, I stitched the entire thing, every color stop, in one color. I love the monochromatic look that it has!

coffee coaster in hoop 2

I finished these two different ways: Traditional binding and cutting with Pinking Sheers.

coffee coasters 1

If you choose to bind them, I suggest cutting the binding strip on a 60° bias. This will give you plenty of stretch to go around the curve.

ditch foot

In order to save a little time, I used my Ditch Quilting Foot to finish off the binding so I could sew it all on by machine.

ditch foot in action

Although I don’t mind how it turned out with the binding, I decided I liked them just as well cutting them with Pinking Sheers so I did the rest of the coasters that way.coffee coasters 1

This saved a lot of time too so I could move on to my next set of coasters!

santa coasters all

I adore these Santa Coasters! This is also a design in the Sulky Embroidery Club.

santa supplies

I did the same layering like I did with the Coffee Coasters above but this time I used Sulky 40 Wt. Rayon Lipstick #561 in the top and bobbin thread.

santa 2

I cut all four out using a wavy blade rotary cutter.

santa w wavy blade 1

Since these are square and I wanted to be sure my line was straight, I used my acrylic ruler as a guide when I was cutting. I also turned my cutting mat over. I know the mats are supposed to be self-healing, but with a wavy blade I felt better doing it on a surface that it wouldn’t matter if it didn’t self-heal properly.

cutting out santa coasters

 

In no time at all, you can have several gifts made just by making these great coasters! Watch out tomorrow for more quick gift ideas.

Happy Sewing!