Free Webinar: Create a Unicorn Towel Hoodie

Free Webinar: Create a Unicorn Towel Hoodie

Free Webinar: Let’s Create a Unicorn!

Demystifying the Hooded Towel

“Let me walk you through the process of creating adorable Hoodie Towels using my new Unicorn pattern. Creating these towels as fun gifts is easy and so satisfying. I will even show you how to fold it and add a bow so it is all ready to give away.”
Desiree of Desiree’s Designs


You’ll learn:

Free Webinar: Create a Unicorn Towel Hoodie

  • How to hoop up your stabilizer and float your towel
  • How to make different-sized towel hoodies for different ages
  • How to follow a machine guided applique by either cutting or using SVG files
  • How to use a topper like Sulky Solvy Stabilizer, as well as Sulky Fabri-Solvy Stabilizer for embroidery on towels
  • How to assemble your hoodie with the bath towel
  • How to fold and add a bow to complete the whole package

  • Downloadable step-by-step instructions for the hoodie
  • Each step has pictures!
  • A chance to win the special Sulky webinar CD that will have 4 unique designs, consisting of: a hedgehog, Boston Terrier with glasses, Boston Terrier with bow, and the unicorn (a $24.95 value!)
  • A chance to win a completed Unicorn Hoodie

Free Webinar: Create a Unicorn Towel Hoodie

Join us live if you can, to take advantage of our web-specials!

Date | February 20, 2018

Time | 2 pm EST

Duration | 1 hour

Featuring | Desiree Dianne Habicht: Artist, Fiber Artist, Multi-media Artist, Owner and CCO of Desiree’s Designs, Fabric Designer, Pattern Designer, Embroidery Designer, Instructor and Business Coach

Can’t make the live viewing? No worries! You can still sign up! Following the initial broadcast, the webinar will be available on-demand so you can watch it at your convenience!

Free Webinar: Create a Unicorn Towel Hoodie

Picture This! DIY Photo Frame Mat

Picture This - DIY Photo Frame Mat

pamela Cox headshot

This series is written by guest blogger, Pamela Cox. Pamela is an expert embroiderer, designer, digitizer and all around wonderful girl! We are so happy to have her contributing to the Sulky Blog!

Picture This!

DIY Photo Frame Mat

It’s hard to find a Valentine’s Day gift that can be used all year long.  Candy is great, but in this household it is gone almost as soon as it is opened!  Love those flowers and I do wish they would last forever, but sadly they don’t. But picture this… A photo frame mat!

A framed picture of a loved one does last forever, and machine embroidery makes it easy to customize a photo mat, making it all the more special.

Instructions given are for personalizing an 8”x10” mat displaying embroidery designs of choice, including an area for a 4×6 photo insert.


10”x12” frame with a 7-3/4” x 9-3/4” opening

12”x14” piece of tightly woven fabric such as Denim, Duck-cloth or Osnaberg


Fusible web, such as The Warm Company‘s Steam-a-Seam2®

Sulky 40 wt. Rayon Thread

90/14 Topstitch needle

Embroidery Designs from Sulky Embroidery Club:

Scrolling Hearts Collection #1641

Love Flourish Medium #770 (free download)

Photo insert template

Cardboard – from a cardboard box is fine and an optional piece of card stock

Plan a customized mat:

Open the photo template in a software editing program. The design shows three color stops.


The brown, color stop #1, is not intended to be stitched out, but rather to define the available stitching area for an 8″ x 10” mat during the planning process. The opening for the photo insert has two color stops. Color #2 – blue – bastes the oval shape showing placement. It is then covered with a 5” x 7” piece of Sulky Soft ’n Sheer Extra™.  Color #3 – green – stitches the stabilizer in place with secure small stitches. Both color stops should be stitched in a thread that matches the foundation fabric.

Bring several designs into the working area of an editing program and begin to create your mat.

Planning a layout is truly a “trial and error” effort.  Choose designs that have potential and begin to move them around.  Two choices were eliminated immediately as being too large.  The two remaining were positioned around the opening.

Once satisfied with the layout, combine the designs and check the stitching order. The embroidery designs must stitch out before the oval.  If need be, change the stitching order in the software.  If combining colors, make sure no design thread color is found in the template.  If there are matching colors, change the template, allowing it to stitch out independently.

The oval can be selected and moved within the brown framework. Although design edges can touch the framework’s sides, keep the oval at least 1/2” inside the boundary.

Planning a mat can be done directly on the embroidery machine, providing the machine offers some basic “editing” features. Since there are so many embroidery machines available, it would be hard to state definitive steps.

It is the same thought process of bringing in designs, experiencing the trial and error process and then combining them. If you’re unable to change the order of colors, ensuring that the oval stitches last; individually select which color stops to stitch during the embroidery process.


With paper still intact and facing up, Secure a piece of Sulky Sticky+ in the hoop. Lightly score the paper with a pin, and remove the paper exposing the sticky surface.

Mark the center of the fabric. I hand-baste the intersecting lines. When the hooped stabilizer is placed on a quilter’s cutting mat, the grid lines are visible underneath the stabilizer, which helps in placing fabrics straight and on grain in the hoop.

Once satisfied with fabric placement, firmly press into the sticky surface, keeping the fabric wrinkle free.

Transfer your creative combination to the embroidery machine.

Stitched example uses the flourishing word “Love” and design #1608 from the Scrolling Hearts Collection, omitting the word “love” from its design.

Match machine needle and design centers,

remove hand-basted threads, and stitch out the accent designs before the oval.

Helpful Hint:  Slow the speed of the machine down by half.

After the accent designs are finished and the oval’s first color has basted in the shape of the oval, center the piece of Sulky Soft ’n Sheer Extra over the oval with the fusible side (rough-to-the-touch side) facing up. Stitch the 2nd color, keeping the top stabilizer wrinkle-free and taut.

Remove from the machine and release the hoop.  Do not cut the excess Sulky Sticky+ Stabilizer from the back side. Instead, remove the remaining paper and press the full fabric piece onto its surface, keeping the fabric wrinkle-free.

Helpful Hint: Sticky+ does allow for fabric to be gently lifted off its surface and repositioned if need be.

Trim jump threads.

Cut inside the oval 1/4” away from stitching, through all three layers; Soft ’n Sheer Extra, fabric, and Sticky+.

Clip into seam, up to, but not through, the small securing stitches.

Pull the top stabilizer through the opening to the wrong side. Carefully press around the oval, fusing the stabilizer in place to form a nice oval shape while keeping the fabric wrinkle-free.

Finish Framing:

“Crop” the photo:

Lay the photo, facing up, on a flat surface and apply scotch tape to each side, with the sticky side of the tape facing up as well. Hover the oval opening over the photo, selecting the desired portion of the photo, and press the fabric down into the sticky scotch tape.

Cut the fabric piece to size:

Laying the glass insert on top moving it around until the area you wish displayed is under glass. With a fabric marking pen, mark a 1” margin around all four sides. Trim the fabric mat along these lines.

Press 1” margin hem on all four sides.

Cut a piece of cardboard to fit the frame by tracing the glass insert. Cut a piece of Steam-a-Seam2 the same size as the cardboard:

Fuse material to the cardboard keeping the paper side facing up and paper intact.

Lay the cardboard inside the fabric’s turned up edges:

With glass back in the frame, place the unfinished mat in place to check the fit of the mat; turning over to look through the glass, confirming placement of photo insert and embroidery design within viewing area.

Helpful Hint: If you’re pleased with the results, continue with directions. If not, remove from frame, iron fabric to remove 1” creases and/or reposition photo. 

If the corrections moved the embroidery design in a different position, the hemmed sides may not be a uniform 1” all around, but that’s okay.  The margin allows room for change.

Return the mat to the frame, check once again and continue. Peel the paper backing away from the Steam-a-Seam2. Gently tug up on the fabric as it is pulled over the edge of the cardboard and pressed into the sticky surface.  This will keep the fabric wrinkle-free and as taut as possible.

Allow the fabric in each corner to stand upright by smoothing adjacent sides together until they meet, mitering the corner.

Once all four sides are secured to the cardboard, remove the mat from the frame and press corners flat. Press each corner individually to keep the iron away from the sticky surface.

Return the finished mat to the frame.  If the frame has a full backing, simply add it.

However, if the customized mat will not be covered by a pre-made one, cut a piece of card-stock, lay it in place and seal the back.

Get ready to proudly present your special Valentine a lasting gift made with love!

Use this template to celebrate other holidays, special events, friendships…

Designs: Spoolie 5 #870 from Sulky Embroidery Club – Accents: both Quick Express Embroideries from Premier+2


or simply a special photo.

Remember, the oval can be moved within the framework’s work space to change the available space for accent designs. The oval shape also accommodates horizontal photos and layouts.

Designs: Cowboy Bear 830 from Sulky Embroidery Club – Accents: both Quick Express Embroideries from Premier+2



Stabilizers and Thread available at

Designs available at

Valentine’s Day DIY Inspiration

Valentine’s Day DIY Inspiration

With Valentine’s Day coming up we wanted to highlight our previous Valentine’s Day blog posts to give you some “lovely” inspiration.

Heart Mug Rug and Place Mats Tutorial

Fill your home with love! Create these adorable heart-shaped place mats and “mug rugs” for the perfect Valentine’s Day environment.

Valentine's Day DIY Inspiration

Machine Embroidery on Card Stock Tutorial

Create unique, personal cards that the recipient can cherish forever or even use as Valentine’s Day decor for years to come!

DIY Heart Pendant

Whether you want to show love to a friend, sibling, child, or make one for yourself, these little hand-stitched pendants are wonderful, quick and easy Valentine’s Day gifts!

Scrappy St. Valentine’s Day Cards

These cards are not only fun to make, but they utilize those old tiny scraps you have lying around! Learn how to transform your scraps into beautiful, hand-crafted cards that can be cherished forever.

Written by guest blogger Jen Frost of Faith and Fabric.

In-the-Hoop Picture Frames – An Easier Way!

Give your photographs a home with these thoughtful, one-of-a-kind picture frames.

Written by guest blogger Patti Lee, Vice President, Consumer Relations, Sulky of America.

Valentine's Day Inspiration

Show us what Valentine’s Day gift ideas you come up with! Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter and use hashtag #SewBetterWithSulky for a chance to be featured on Sulky’s social media!

Fill in the Blanks – Oh, the Possibilities!

Fill in the Blanks

pamela Cox headshot

This series is written by guest blogger, Pamela Cox. Pamela is an expert embroiderer, designer, digitizer and all around wonderful girl! We are so happy to have her contributing to the Sulky Blog!

Need a last-minute gift for a birthday or holiday, but there is no time for shopping?  Not to mention that your mind just goes blank?  That may not be a bad idea after all!

There are many pre-made “clean slates” perfect for embellishing with machine embroidery.  T-shirts, sweatshirts, and linens all come to mind – and all are easily found in many local stores.


A plain white pillow case can easily be turned into a special holiday or wedding gift by releasing the hem,

embroidering a design, and re-stitching!

Design: #135 “Squiggle Flower #4” from Sulky Embroidery Club


A beautiful cashmere scarf would be well appreciated and, when monogrammed, becomes a lifetime treasure.

Original monogram design

Don’t limit garments to just t-shirts and sweatshirts – look at other items to add a fashion statement to.

Blouse design: Janes White Work from Graceful Embroidery; Sweatshirt: Eagle Head-Toile A8372 from Embroidery Library

Obviously, all pre-made items can be used as originally intended, but with a little creative thought, some items can be stitched together to quickly make larger gifts.


A handkerchief can be embroidered and simply be an even more lovely and special handkerchief…

Design: Janes White Work from Graceful Embroidery

Or, a larger handkerchief could serve as a nightstand topper.

Stitching two or more together creates a table runner!

Design: “Pumpkin Scrolls” from Graceful Embroidery


Napkins also make great gifts as is…

but, they too, can be seamed together – or in this case, butted up against each other to create larger table linens.

Most machines offer a variety of joining stitches, a stitch that will “bite” into one side of a straight line and then jump over and “bite” into the other side.

Large tablecloths can even be made from joining linen napkins – and the best part is that it can be made by embroidering a square at a time!

Designs Janet Sansom’s Georgia Collection

Helpful Hints

Now that you can see the potential in using blanks, both as they are meant to be, and, possibly, expanding original intentions, let’s explore a few helpful hints to ensure successful embroidering!

Since pre-made items come in a variety of fabrics, materials, shapes and thicknesses, there is no “one size fits all” advice.  However, it is safe to say that almost all pre-made items cannot, or should not, be secured directly in an embroidery hoop.  It might be due to its material – like this straw place mat.

Or due to its size or thickness, such as a pot holder.

Sulky to the rescue!

Fortunately, Sulky® has many choices in stabilizers to solve any dilemma that might occur during the hooping process.

There are two types of “sticky” stabilizers, which allow pre-made items to be secure in a hoop by firmly pressing it directly on to the hooped stabilizer:


Sticky+™ is an easy-to-tear stabilizer, perfect behind larger designs and especially appliques.

It holds the pre-made item in place, yet easily peels away from the stitched area.  It is the first choice for most commercial embroiderers.

Sticky Fabri-Solvy™

Sticky Fabri-Solvy – a water soluble stabilizer that is perfect for projects where the back should look as nice as the right side of the project. Once again, the item is securely held for stitching, but after the excess stabilizer is gently pulled up from the fabric and cut-away, any remaining stabilizer disappears after rinsing.

On projects such as the potholder, matching bobbin (Sulky PolyLite™) and top (Sulky 40 wt. Rayon) thread color was used.  Compare the two potholder photos.  Hard to tell front from back, right? Hint: check out the hanging loop.  (TIP:  If you are giving a potholder that is going to be used and not just a decorative item, be sure to use only Sulky Cotton Threads for embroidery.  Cotton has a higher melting point than either rayon or polyester.)

Needle selection is dependent upon the material being embroidered, however, Topstitch needles are perfect for machine embroidering, especially since they can be found in larger gauges which are helpful of pre-made quilted items.

Heavy, thick items, such as the pot holder, was stitched with a 100/16 needle, while the bib was stitched with a 90/14 one.  For knits, use a Ballpoint embroidery needle in proper gauge for fabric weight.  (And a real plus for some of us – they’re easier to thread!)

Design positioning is also important on pre-made items.  Take the time to mark center design position on the item and then line up machine needle position to it.

Even though the sticky surface of the stabilizer will secure the item for stitching, if your machine offers the function of basting a box around the design, it is helpful to use it.  Not only will it secure a top stabilizer (Sulky Heat-Away Clear Film™ or Sulky Solvy™) if needed,

but a “fix box” also provides a visual of design placement prior to embroidering.  If your machine doesn’t have a fix feature, and you find you need more “sticky” to secure the “unhoopable” item, you can use Sulky KK 2000™ to add extra sticky to the stabilizer and/or the wrong side of the item.

Two suggestions that are universal when machine embroidering on pre-made items:

  1. Turn the speed of the embroidery machine down by at least half.
  2. Monitor the stitching process.  Many pre-made items, when hooped, present with a lot of extra fabric or parts, which could easily fall onto the stitching surface and get caught in the stitching process – possibly damaging the machine.

Build a stash of blanks by shopping sales to find quality “blank canvases” to keep on hand all year long!  I’m just saying…

“Blanks” may just become your new best friend!

Design: Sulky Embroidery Club’s 684 “Owl”

Featured designs are available on the following websites:

Show us how you #SewBetterWithSulky – follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter and share your photos using hashtag #SewBetterWithSulky 🙂

Why You Will Fall in Love with Machine Cross Stitch!

Why you’ll fall in love with Machine Cross Stitch

(like we did!)


Guys… we still can’t get over how amazing Machine Cross Stitch embroidery designs are!  We recently added two new designers to the Sulky Embroidery Club (where you can find hundreds of unique downloadable designs!).  These designers are Marcia Manning of Lickity Stitch Designs and Ursula Michael.

We adore Marcia’s whimsical Christmas tree designs, her adorable Monster Alphabet, and her most recent camping and Christmas designs are too funny.  And wait til you see Ursula’s fun word play designs! There are tons of designs to choose from and we could rave about them for days, so why don’t we just show you a few!

Monster Alphabet Designs:

Aren’t they adorable?!  You can purchase all 26 letters or buy them individually!  HINT: $195 if sold separately – combo price $90 – now only $54!  

Each Monster Alphabet Letter fits 4×4 and larger hoops.  Designs come in 10 size/densities. 22-2 count, 18-2 count, 18-4 count, 16-4 count, 16-6 count, 14-2 count, 14-4 count, 14-6 count, 11-6 count, and 11-10 count.

Monster Alphabet Pillow:

Ellen Osten stitched out a few letters from Lickity Stitch’s “Monster Alphabet” onto a pillow, which gave us a chance to really capture the amazing detail in Machine Cross Stitch designs:

Wine Word Play Machine Cross Stitch:


Wine Word Play Design

Thankfully, Ellen also recently stitched up a couple of wine bags (blog tutorial coming soon!) using a couple of word play designs.

You can also buy this design in a collection (and save money!) “Vibes and Embibes”: $76 if purchased separately – $60 combo price – sale price now only $36!  

Original designs by Ursula Michael and digitized by Marcia Manning of Lickity Stitch Designs.  Designs come in multiple size/densities.

Hug a Teacher Word Play:

Ellen stitched up one more awesome project (blog coming soon!) for us – a journal cover using one of Ursula’s wordplay designs “Hug a Teacher Word Play”:

Buy the Work Word Play Collection!:  $90 if sold separately – $72 combo price – now only $42! 

There are so many more designs to choose from!

Right now all Machine Cross Stitch combos are 40% off the combo price, making them up to 60% off if purchased as separate designs! 

We’d love to see what you create!  Like us on Facebook and follow us on Instagram and share your projects with #SewBetterWithSulky for a chance to be featured! 🙂

Happy Sewing!

Machine Cross Stitch – Christmas Place Mats

pamela Cox headshot

This series is written by guest blogger, Pamela Cox. Pamela is an expert embroiderer, designer, digitizer and all around wonderful girl! We are so happy to have her contributing to the Sulky Blog!

Whether you are looking to add something beautiful to your Christmas table or looking for a great gift, these machine cross stitch Christmas place mats are perfect!  They are elegant without the elegant price because they are made with Osnaburg fabric. Osnaburg is a loosely woven utility fabric.  It resembles coarse linen, but at a much lower price point.  The thicker fibers, which are woven in a simple basket-weave pattern, make it easy to create the “run” needed for weaving ribbon into the fabric.

Osnaburg is 100% cotton and must be washed, dried, and pressed prior to using.

It must also be square-cut, on-grain, not only for the pulled runs to appear straight, but also to achieve more of an authentic, hand-done cross-stitched effect.  To place the fabric on true grain, pull threads across the width of the fabric until one fiber travels the full width of the fabric, from selvage edge to selvage edge.  This establishes the “straight edge” to begin straight cutting.

Gather Supplies:

Osnaburg fabric for each placemat:

  • 19” x 13” front
  • 16-1/4” x 10-3/4” back

Note:  1-1/2 yards of Osnaburg fabric along with 4 yards each of two ribbon colors will yield 4 placemats

1 yd each of 2 complementing colors of 1/8” wide satin ribbon

Sulky® Soft ’n Sheer™ Stabilizer

Sulky KK 2000™ Temporary Spray Adhesive (optional)



  • 80/12 Schmetz® Topstitch
  • 70/10 Microtex (optional)-fixing function
  • 100/16 Wing Needle (optional)-hemstitch

Rotary Cutter, Quilter’s Ruler, and Cutting Mat (optional, but very helpful)

Lickity Stitch™ Cross Stitch Embroidery Designs by Marcia Manning

There are ten designs available in this exclusive cross-stitch exhibit of Christmas trees, and each one is available in various stitch-count formats.

In other words, each individual design is available to be stitched in various sizes and density depending on the chosen stitch count.  Additional stitch-counts are available for each design other than the ones shown. To better understand the stitch-counts and sizes, check out the tutorial on the Sulky Embroidery Club site.

Osnaburg’s weave is about 25 threads per inch. Design #5, count 22-2 has been chosen for this place mat, lending the design to a petite-point, cross-stitch look.

How to make it happen:

Begin by pulling threads on the 19” x 13” piece of Osnaburg fabric.  Measure over 2” from the left side of the rectangle.  Select one vertical thread and “catch it” with a pin.

Gently pull up on this thread, noticing that the fabric begins to gather.

Pull this single thread out of the woven fabric – the entire 13″ height of the fabric piece.

The first fiber removed from any “run” is the hardest to remove.  It will break…and it will break several times.  However, the continuing thread length is easy to spot further down in the run since the initial weave of the fabric has been distorted.  Use a pin to pick up the frayed end, and continue to gently tease the gathers along this same thread line.

Remove adjacent vertical threads until an 1/8” wide run has been created in the fabric.  About four or five threads will need to be removed.  However, since the woven fibers of Osnaburg are not uniform, sometimes you may have to remove more or less threads. It is important to do a reality check on each run before moving on to create the next run.  Start to weave a strip of ribbon into the run.

The run should easily accept the ribbon, allowing the ribbon to lay flat.  Use a yarn needle or a dental floss carrier to make weaving easier. Magnifying glasses may also be helpful.

Once the width of the first run has been established, measure 1/4” from its side towards center of the place mat.

Pull a thread and begin the process of creating a second run.

After the two vertical runs have been made, repeat the process in creating two horizontal runs.  Begin by measuring up 2” from the bottom edge and selecting a horizontal thread to “catch” with a pin.

Pull the proper number of threads for the first run, measure up towards center 1/4” and pull threads for the second run.

Once the four runs have been created, press the fabric keeping all runs straight and perpendicular.  Steam may not be your friend here.

Mark the design placement on the fabric by basting lines to indicate the design center.  Please Note: Measurements for the design center will vary, dependent on the chosen design and also on the chosen stitch count.  

Check the design’s height and width, and divide that number in half.

Measure from the edge of the run closest to center.  Since the design measurements are very close to 5” x 6”, and the stitches should not contact the open fibers of the run, divide 5” x 6” in half and even add 1/8 to 1/4” to those measurements for a bit of extra space.

Printing a template true-to-size is another method of ensuring proper placement of a design.

Hoop the fabric….(technically, only the stabilizer will be hooped).

Secure a piece of Sulky® Soft ’n Sheer™ Stabilizer in the proper size hoop making it as “tight as a drum” as possible.

Fold the fabric back exposing the basting lines on the wrong side. Match the intersecting basting lines to hoop center. Viewing a grid underneath the stabilizer will help to keep fabric straight in the hoop.  (Hint:  The center marks on your hoop may not be a true-center of the hoop.  Use the marks on your hoop.)

Attach the hoop to the embroidery arm, and begin the process of matching the design center to the center needle position on the embroidery machine.

If an exact positioning function is available on your machine, check the lower left corner of the design to ensure that the stitching will clear the pulled thread runs.

Fix the fabric to the stabilizer (a basting function found on many embroidery machines).  Use a 70/10 Microtex needle for this step.  Although it will require changing to a larger needle for embroidery, this fine needle will make smaller holes when fixing.  The fixing box will also serve as another check-point, not only that the design clears the runs, but also that the fabric has been hooped straight.

Change to the Topstitch Needle; slow the machine down to half-speed and begin to embroider the design.

Monitor the stitching process, and cut the jump threads as they occur.

Once the embroidery is complete, remove from the hoop, and clean up the back by trimming long jump threads and excess stabilizer.

Press the top, keeping the runs straight and perpendicular to each other.

Begin weaving the ribbon through the runs starting with a length of ribbon several inches longer than the run. Use a simple basket weave of going over six threads and under six threads, or however many threads you choose, for the full length of the run.

The first run is the hardest to weave since the fibers need to be counted.  The second weaving goes much quicker since you just match the in and out spacing of the first run, alternating the up/under pattern of the two ribbons.

After the four runs have been filled, press the piece once again.

Re-cut the front, beginning 1-3/4” on the outside of the first run on the left.

Measure over from this edge 18”, and straight cut.

Measure 1-3/4” down from the outside of the first run on the bottom, and square cut.

Measure up 12-1/2” from this cut edge, and square cut the top.

Press under 3/4” on all 4 sides.  Open back up.  Fold and press the raw edges in to meet this 3/4″ crease.

Cover the back of the place mat with the 16-1/4” x 10” piece of Osnaburg inside the hem lines.  Lightly spraying the back side of the smaller piece with Sulky KK 2000™ Temporary Spray Adhesive will help to keep it in place, smoothly behind the front.

Fold the hem over the back piece, mitering the corners.  Pin the hem in place, and secure it with a machine stitch of your choice.  This can be a straight stitch, or any number of decorative stitches.

This method of finishing a place mat allows the back to look as precise as the front.

machine cross stitch christmas place mats

Your Guide to the Perfect Gift Ideas

We know how rushed the Holidays can be. We want to help make things a little easier for you! Below, are some categories to help get you started on the perfect gift just in time for Christmas!

Christmas Ideas:

Monogram Gifts:

Gifts for the Sports Fan:

Gifts for the Sewist:

Quick Gifts:

For Baby:


Breast Cancer related gifts:

your guide to the perfect gift ideas

These are just a few of our many gift categories, but we hope these get you going in the right direction!

Happy Sewing!

Handmade Gift Ideas from “Trash to Couture”

Hi there, Laura here from Trash to Couture!
Need some inspiration and ideas for your handmade gifting this year?  No worries, Sulky and I have got you covered. Not only are handmade gifts a sentimental gesture, they’re also fun to create.  Below we have 4 DIY gift ideas you can make for just about everyone in your life.
Get the details below :

DIY Ornament:

  • Hoop using Sulky’s Fabri Solvy – I usually do 2 layers.
  • Use a free standing ornament design. I used a star from my Brother SE machine.
  • Use Sulky’s Metallic Thread and metallic needles.
  • Embroider away!
  • Place in water and let the magic happen as the stabilizer disappears.
  • Once it has dried, tie a string to hang.
DIY Free-standing Jewelry:

DIY Monogram Beanie:

We monogram just about anything in the South and it’s the perfect way to customize a gift like this essential winter beanie. 

Other ideas to try:

Monogrammed Camera Case

Handmade Gift Ideas From Trash to Couture

DIY Hoop Art:

I love embroidered hoop art, it’s such a fun and cute way to add some artwork to your walls.  It’s also easy to customize, which makes it a great gift idea – like this cactus design here. It’s perfect for hanging right above my sewing machine!
Check out this DIY Embroidered Wall Art for more.

Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial

Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial

Sew4Home recently shared a great sewing patches tote tutorial on their blog, which we HAD to share with you guys!  They created two custom machine embroidery patch designs using Sulky 30 Wt. Cotton Thread.  Most people don’t think of cotton when they think of machine embroidery, but, as you’ll see on their tutorial, cotton creates a wonderful matte finish and rich density that you just can’t quite get with polyester or rayon.

Below are the awesome patches:

Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial

We are honored to have sponsored this project and are in love with how it turned out! Both embroidery patch designs are offered in two sizes as FREE downloads in the six major machine embroidery formats.


Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial

The best part is, you can add these patches virtually anywhere! Such as: a jacket, backpack, t-shirt, hat or beanie, sewing machine cover, caddy organizer, and “sew” much more!

On their blog you can get the free instructions for how to make the bag, plus a pattern. The patches would also make a great gift for a sewist you know!

Sew4Home Sulky Sewing Patches Tote Tutorial

What are you waiting for? Go check out the full tutorial on the Sew4Home website. 

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Cork Bottom Tote in 14 Easy Steps

DIY Monogrammed Cork-Bottom Bag

in 14 Easy Steps

Whether you need it for the beach, going to class, a game-day tailgate party, or to carry your latest sewing project, this tote is a perfect size and is always in style. I have made several of these as gifts and the recipients always love them. They always comment about how the cork bottom gives it just the right touch of sophistication. The best part is they are so simple to make!

DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Monogrammed Cork-Bottom Bag


4 Fat Quarters or 1 yard of fabric

2 pieces of cork fabric cut to 18″ x 4-1/2″

2 straps, each 57″ long

Clover® Wonder Clips

Fabric Marker

Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer Extra™ or Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch™ Stabilizer for extra stability

Cotton+Steel® Thread by Sulky or Sulky 30 wt. Cotton Thread

Sulky 40 wt. Rayon Thread for the machine embroidery

Sulky Cut-Away Plus™ Stabilizer

The Monogram –

  1. I used Interlocking Vine Satin & Filled Alphabet from I made sure the center of the monogram was 9″ in from the edge, and about 7″- 9″ up from the bottom. That is your preference; you decide where you want the monogram to sit on the bag vertically, but centering it horizontally is pretty important.
  2. I used Sulky 40 wt. Rayon Thread in the top and bobbin and I used Sulky Cut Away Plus because the this design is pretty dense (heavy and thick).

DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag


  1. Cut 2 fat quarters 18″ x 15-1/2″ for the outside fabric (be mindful to keep the monogram centered); and cut the other 2 fat quarters 19-1/2″ x 18″ for the lining. The 2 cork pieces should be cut 18″ x 4 1/2″ DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  2. Pin the straps in place, 3-1/2″ in from each of the sides. DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  3. Use the Clover Wonder clips instead of pins (you can’t pin the cork because the holes from the pins don’t go away); and with right sides together, sew the cork piece onto the bottom of the fabric (the 15-1/2″ bottom) with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  (Hint:  Place the flat side of the clips on the bottom, as shown below, for easier stitching.)DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  4. Press the seam towards the fabric. Surprisingly, the cork fabric acts very much like regular cotton fabric. I did use a medium temperature on my iron but I probably could have used high heat and been fine. As always, test before you ruin a project!
  5. Topstitch the two sides of each strap, and leave 1/2″ unstitched at the top. Be sure to backstitch at the start and end of each stitching line.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  6. Place the front and back pieces right sides together, and sew the sides and bottom together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  7. Box the bottom corners by laying the corner out, match the side seam with the bottom seam, and measure in 2″ from the corner.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  8. Mark the line and stitch. Be sure to backstitch.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  9. Now for the lining! I stabilized my bags by fusing Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer Extra to the lining pieces of the bags. For extra stability, use Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch. Sulky Soft 'n Sheer Cut-Away embroidery stabilizer is permanent, textured, non-woven nylon that is ultra-soft next to skin. Sulky Fuse 'n Stitch Embroidery Stabilizer is a firm, crisp, heavyweight iron-on permanent stabilizer that is ideal for projects that need extra stiffness and retained support.
  10. Sew the two lining pieces, right sides together, along both sides and across the bottom, with a 1/4″ seam allowance.   Box the bottom the same way you did with the outside pieces. DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  11. Fold and press 1/2″ down on the top of the lining (folded over so the wrong sides are touching). DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDo the same with the outside piece (this is why you didn’t sew the strap down that last  1/2″ at the top).  NOTE: If you bought Nylon straps, be careful with the iron, they could melt (ask me how I know 🙂 ).DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  12. Turn the outside of the bag right sides out, and put the lining inside.
  13. Carefully clip the top edges together matching the sides seams. This is also your chance to do a reality check – the lining with the outside – and adjust if one is bigger than the other.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag
  14. Topstitch the lining to the bag about 1/8″ from the folded edge. DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom BagDIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag

You are done! Enjoy your new cool bag.DIY Game-Day Monogrammed, Cork-Bottom Bag